The Wall Street Journal devoted some laudatory ink to Nokomis Restaurant in Duluth Township in its weekend edition.
Raymond Sokolov won’t likely endear himself to locals with the opening to his column, “Dinner Deep in Walleye Territory.”
He begins: “It was lunchtime in flyover country.”
But Sokolov goes on to observe that while East and West Coasters may not deign to put down in Great Lakes territory, his recent dining experience proves “beyond a doubt that the view from 30,000 feet misses first-rate grub well worth coming to earth for.”
He goes on to sing the praises of Nokomis Restaurant, operating under the direction of Chef Sean Lewis, who worked in revered Chicago kitchens before landing in Duluth, including the Everest Room, perched above the Chicago Stock Exchange.
Sokolov writes glowingly of Lewis’ whitefish cake with a mustard remoulade, brioche and roasted peppers, as well as the restaurant’s walleye sandwich.
The latter earned the following assessment: “The perfectly broiled piece of walleye we ate exemplified what cookbooks call ‘fleshy white fish.’ Moist, sweet-tasting and fleshy, this was supremo fish, in a truly superior setting.”
Read Sokolov’s whole column here.
One other Duluth connection. Note that the Wall Street Journal’s images of food at Nokomis were captured by Derek Montgomery, a photographer formerly employed here at the Duluth News Tribune.